The tuna carpaccio at Zenkichi is fresh and tart. The miso black cod is as rich and flavorful as Nobu's, for a fifth of the cost. The sake selection covers an impressive range of choices from fruity to dry, filtered to unfiltered. But the reason to journey to this gem of Williamsburg is the exceptional interior design, which feels less like a restaurant than a set from an Orientalized David Lynch film. You wait for your table in a dramatically-lit little alcove framed by bamboo trees, with polished black rocks underfoot. Then the hostess leads you through a dark labyrinth of little cubes, each intimately lit by a japanese paper lantern. You snuggle into your cube, and the hostess unfurls a wooden shade, covering the entrance and creating a private cocoon just for you. The effect is like dining in a serene little cabin in the middle of nowhere, though you're three feet away from the next table. You peruse the menu, a fusion of Japanese and French cuisine, and summon the waitstaff to place an order by pushing a button on the corner of your table. Throughout the meal, invisible hands slip under the shade to deposit towels, remove dishes, and refill water glasses, discreetly and soundlessly.

Impeccable design, comfort in spite of tight spaces, attentive yet unobtrusive service, fresh and superb cuisine – these add up to the most memorable dining experience I've had in a while. Swing by the 'burg soon and check it out: 77 N 6th St, Brooklyn, NY 11211. And the word has gotten out, so make sure to reserve a table: (718) 388-8985.